CARE SHEET

Mediterranean Tortoises : Hibernation of Hatchlings

The following notes apply to Mediterranean hatchling tortoises only.

In the wild, as winter approaches, tortoises begin to slow down and their appetite decreases as temperatures drop.  In their native country, even tortoises hatched in September will hibernate naturally in the ground.

In captivity, however, as a safeguard, it is recommended that all hatchlings are overwintered in their vivarium for the first year.  During the second year a short period of hibernation is advisable.  This will keep the tortoise's body clock correct and slow down the accelerated growth rate - which can occur in captivity.

Hibernation does not mean months, certainly not for a hatchling.  A period of 4 - 5 weeks is perfectly adequate for the second time and 7 - 8 weeks for the third time, so long as you are satisfied that all is well.

In a vivarium environment, or outdoor shed with heatlamp and background heating, your tortoise will not be aware of the changing seasons, although hopefully it will have spent many days outside in a secure run on warm sunny days.  As winter approaches you will need to cool down your tortoise.  This can be done over a period of about 7 days for 1 - 2 year olds.  If your vivarium is in a warm room with plenty of natural light, just leave the vivarium lights off.  Your tortoise will move about to urinate and defecate but not be warm enough to be hungry, hence it will empty its gut over this period and be ready to hibernate.  If, however, you find that your tortoise has just dug in and is not moving about, allow enough light or heat to get it moving, gradually decreasing over the 7 day period.  During this time, tepid baths are advisable; this encourages urination and the tortoise will have the opportunity to drink.  If your tortoise is housed in a shed with a heatlamp, as the weather turns colder it is advisable to bring it indoors to sleep at night or provide some background heating in its shed, so that when the heatlamp time is reduced the tortoise will still be warm enough to move around in order to empty its gut ready for hibernation.  The best time of the year to hibernate a very young tortoise which does not need a lengthy hibernation is December/January, as the temperature is usually more stable.

After hibernation the weather will still be cold and again some background heat, as well as an overhead lamp, must be provided (if your tortoise is housed in a shed) until the weather warms up.

When your tortoise has cooled down, and you are happy that all food has passed through the gut, it can he placed in a box of peat or dry grow bag compost. Get the box ready well in advance and do make sure that the compost is dry; tortoises can stand cold but damp is a death sentence.  Place in a cold place, a dry cellar or outhouse/garage, preferably stone-built, as temperatures in sheds can fluctuate.  Two boxes are advisable, one inside the other with a gap that can be filled with shredded paper for insulation; do not forget to insulate the bottom of the box; this is most important.

The temperature for hibernation will need to be between 2 and 5 degrees centigrade, so it is no use trying to hibernate your tortoise in September/October; wait until the winter months December/January temperatures are usually more stable.  Do not try to guess the temperature, buy a digital thermometer, available from most reputable DIY stores.  These cost about £10.  This will have a probe which can be placed inside the box with the tortoise.  The main thermometer can then he stood on top of the box and will give the temperature inside and outside the box.  Check your tortoise regularly; you will not wake it up as long as you do not bring it into a warm place to do so.  The following are the things to look for when checking a hibernating tortoise.

It will, of course be cold and in its shell.  Lift it out gently.  There should be some slight movement.

1. Discolouration of the shell.  Check top and bottom.

2. Discharges, nasal, tail.

3. Urination.  If the tortoise has urinated in the box, it should be kept awake.

If you are satisfied that all is well, it can be placed back in the centre of the compost to continue its hibernation.

If any of the the above stated problems occur, the tortoise should not be put back into hibernation.

The temperature should not fall below 2 degrees Celsius.  If temperatures rise and your tortoise wakes up, keep it up (unless it is just within the first week).  A tortoise should never be put back into hibernation for a second time.  Put it in its vivarium or heated outdoor accommodation (with its basking lamp and light) and it should be eating normally within 24 hours.  A warm soak will be appreciated at this time.

Only hibernate your tortoise if you are satisfied that it is healthy and has eaten well during the summer; never hibernate an underweight tortoise.

Do not hibernate your hatchling in leaves or straw.  Apart from the damage this can cause to eyes, both are too springy and can flip over a small hatchling as it moves about in the box.

Adult tortoises can cope with temperature fluctuations but a hatchling, having such a small body mass, can perish if the temperature falls too low.  Listen to the forecasts for your area and remember that temperatures during the night are generally lower than daytime.  My hatchling and juvenile tortoises are usually hibernated in sheds but I have a frostguard heater which comes on should the temperature fall too low. These can be bought quite cheaply and can save a lot of worry and guesswork.

Finally, if your tortoise is in hibernation and you are going to take a winter holiday, do make sure that someone checks the box regularly in your absence.